First introduced in 1983 and then revived again in 2017, the Panthere watch collection has been an important one for Cartier and a favorite among celebrities and regular folk alike. While there are many Cartier Panthere watch variations, the design traits that generally tie them together are square cases, square bezels, classic Cartier dial layouts, and most importantly, supple link bracelets.
With two generations of Cartier Panthere watches available — each offering a variety of sizes, materials, and styles — the options are plentiful. So we’ve put together a handy in-depth Cartier Panthere watch guide discussing the history, evolution, variations, and current status of one of Cartier’s most glamorous timepieces.
Cartier and the Panther
The panther has long been an important emblem of the House of Cartier, cherished for its fierceness, gracefulness, mysteriousness, and beauty. In 1914, Louis Cartier commissioned the “Lady With a Panther” drawing from renowned French illustrator George Barbier to use on a Cartier jewelry exhibition invitation. That same year, Cartier created a magnificent ladies’ wristwatch featuring a panther pattern in black onyx and diamonds.
Lady with a Panther by George Barbier
1914, First appearance of the panther pattern, in onyx and diamonds, on a ladies’ wristwatch
Cartier has since continued to use the panther as inspiration, creating spectacular jewelry featuring the striking feline throughout the decades. There are Cartier pieces featuring panther heads, entire panther silhouettes, and panther-inspired patterns.
Panther heads jewelry
In 1983, Cartier unveiled the Panthere de Cartier watch collection, which doesn’t feature the beautiful beast in an obvious manner but rather subtly. The Panthère de Cartier watch was named after its flexible bracelet that mimics the big cat’s graceful movement. The bracelet was explicitly designed so that the Cartier Panthere watch can double as a jewelry piece; beauty and functionality rolled into one, wrapped stylishly around the wrist. According to Cartier, the Panthere introduced the concept of the jewelry watch.
Panthere de Cartier Bracelets
Cartier Panthere Watch Design Characteristics
Cartier is known for its assortment of shapely watches, ranging from the rectangular Tank and square Santos to the pebble-like Ballon Bleu and asymmetric Crash to the turtle-inspired Tortue and bathtub-like Baignoire. So what are the design characteristics of the Panthère de Cartier watch? Generally speaking (but not in all cases), the defining details of Cartier Panther watches are as follows:
• Square case
• Square bezel punctuated with eight rivets
• Square dial
• Black Roman numerals
• Black square rail-style minute track
• Blue sword-shaped hands
• Secret Cartier signature embedded in X Roman numeral
• Faceted octagonal crown set with a blue cabochon-cut stone
• Five-piece link bracelet that’s ultra-flexible
• Quartz movement
Cartier Panthere 187949 Three Row Midsize
Of course, in true Cartier form, there are variations to the above designs, which we’ll go into depth shortly. However, the vast majority of Cartier Panthere watches feature square cases, bezels, and dials and are fitted with ultra-flexible bracelets with five rows of curved and polished links. Furthermore, they are home to classic Cartier dials with black Roman numerals, blue sword-shaped hands, and rail-style minute tracks, along with the signature blue cabochon-cut stone set into the winding crown.
Fans of Cartier watches will no doubt notice the similarities between the Panthere and the Santos as both watches feature square cases, bezels, and dials. While the Panthere is loosely based on the Santos design, it is softer, smaller, and thinner in execution, resulting in a dressier watch. And again, it’s that beautiful Panthere brick-lay bracelet design that makes all the difference.
First Generation Cartier Panthere Watch Collection: 1983 – 2004
When Cartier introduced the Panthere in the early-1980s, the watch was not only offered in several sizes but also a variety of materials such as white gold, yellow gold, and two-tone steel and gold. There were also exotic offerings that combined white gold and rose gold, not to mention plenty of lavish diamond-set models. Cartier is, after all, best known for its exquisite jewelry.
More affordable full steel versions of the Panthere followed in 1991, which became some of the best-selling Panthere watches.
Cartier offered the first generation of the Panthere in five main sizes. Quick tip, an easy way to tell the sizes apart is to look to see if there’s a date window and where it is placed. What’s more, Mini variants had no winding crown on the right of the case.
• Vintage or Discontinued Cartier Panthere Mini – 17mm, no date window, no winding crown
• Vintage or Discontinued Cartier Panthere Small – 22mm, no date window
• Vintage or Discontinued Cartier Panthere Medium (a.k.a Midsize) – 27mm, date window at 5 o’clock
• Vintage or Discontinued Cartier Panthere Large – 29mm, date window at 3 o’clock
• Rare Cartier Panthere Jumbo – 31mm, date window at 3 o’clock
Cartier Panthere WF3244F3/2363 18K White Gold Diamond mini
Cartier Panthere 1070 18K Yellow Gold Small
Cartier Panthere 18k Yellow Gold Medium (a.k.a. Midsize)
Cartier Panthere W25014B9 18K Yellow Gold Large
Cartier Panthere 187957 Two Tone Jumbo
Interestingly, the Cartier Panthere was originally marketed to both men and women. The Mini and Small versions were classified as a ladies’ watch, the Medium as a unisex watch, and the Large and the Jumbo as a men’s watch. The Panthere was a smash hit throughout the 1980s and 1990s. It perfectly encapsulated the glamour of the era, and the distinctive style of the Panthere was well-suited for the glitterati set. In short, the Panthère de Cartier watch was the must-have luxury watch of its time.
The two-tone Panthere watches were some of the most popular of the collection (this was the 1980s and 1990s, after all). These two-tone versions featured stainless steel cases topped with 18k yellow gold bezels, and the bracelets combined a mix of gold and steel links. There are some two-tone Panthere bracelets with only one row of gold links, others with two rows, and some others with three rows of gold links. Since they were produced for a relatively short time, vintage Panthere watches with three rows of gold links are harder to find than the other versions.
Regardless of size or materials, all of these retro Panthere watches run on quartz movements. Remember, the Panthere watch was released at the height of the quartz revolution and it was all about then-new watch tech that offered unparalleled reliability, practicality, and precision. Plus, a quartz movement allows the Panthere case to remain as slim as possible for the most comfortable fit.
Popular Vintage and/or Discontinued Cartier Panthere Watch References:
As we’ve mentioned, the assortment of discontinued and vintage Cartier Panthere watches is a wide one. However, there are a handful of models that are especially popular and worth noting.
• Steel Cartier Panthere Jumbo 1300 (aka W25032P5)
• Steel Cartier Panthere Midsize 1310 (aka W25054P5)
• Steel Cartier Panthere Small 1320 (aka W25033P5)
• Two Tone Cartier Panthere Jumbo 187957 (aka W25027B5)
• Two Tone Cartier Panthere Midsize 1100 (aka W25028B5)
• Two Tone Cartier Panthere Small 1120 (aka W25029B8)
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Jumbo 883968 (aka W25014B9)
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Midsize 8839
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Small 1070 (aka W25022B9)
While most discontinued Cartier Panthere watches will have either a time-only or time and date dial, Cartier did also make a special edition Panthere Moonphase model in 18k white gold with a diamond-set bezel.
Cartier Panthere 27mm 18K White Gold Moon Phase Diamond-set bezel
Special Dials and Bracelets
Cartier manufactured some special dials and bracelets throughout the history of the original Panthere watch line. Some examples of these special dials include hard stones such as malachite dials, lapis dials, and obsidian dials, in addition to classic mother-of-pearl dials. There are also anniversary dials decorated with the double C Cartier logo. Some of the most valuable Cartier Panthere watches are those with factory diamond-set dials.
Cartier Panthere 22mm 18K yellow gold & original factory diamond set case with Malachite Dial
Cartier Panthere 22mm 18K White Gold & 18K Rose Gold Factory Set Diamonds with Obsidian dial
Cartier Panthere 22mm 18K yellow gold case with factory set diamond case with Mother of pearl anniversary dial
Cartier Panthere 23mm 18K white gold Ice-Blue with anniversary logo dial
Within that original collection, Cartier also produced Panthere watches with special Art Deco-styled bracelets. These are characterized by C-shaped center links, flanked by the customary brick-lay links. There are also diamond-set Art Deco Panthere bracelets, as well as onyx embellished ones. Cartier is renowned for its creativity and the wild assortment within the vast Panther watch collection is a perfect example of that creativeness.
Cartier Panthere 22mm 18K Yellow Gold Special Art Deco-styled bracelets Ivory heart pattern dial with special diamond-set Art Deco-style bracelet
It’s also important to mention that there are Cartier Panthere watches fitted with leather straps. Of all Panthere watches, the leather strap versions resemble the Santos line the most due to the absence of the distinctive link bracelet.
First Generation Cartier Panthere Variations
It is customary for Cartier to experiment with different styles within its various timepiece collections — and the Panthere line, as we’ve mentioned, was no exception. There are two notable Cartier Panthere variations to note: the Cartier Panthere Ruban and the Cartier Panthere Cougar.
The Cartier Panthere Ruban is a wide bracelet watch with either seven or nine rows of links, which wears like a jewelry cuff around the wrist. Nestled inside the exquisitely crafted bracelet cuff is a small square watch case. Cartier made the Panthere Ruban in various metals including stainless steel, 18k yellow gold, and 18k white gold. Some Panthere Ruban watches even include diamonds on the bezel and bracelet.
Cartier Panthere Ruban with Blue mother of pearl dial
On the other hand, the Cartier Panthere Cougar retained the traditional supple five-link bracelet but this time, it was paired with a round case. The round Panthere Cougar watches also borrowed other elements from the square Panthere watches, including eight rivets on the bezel and the classic Cartier Roman numeral dial layout. Cartier even made a Cartier Cougar Chronograph watch at one point, fashioned in 18k yellow gold and featuring three subdials on the dial.
Cartier Discontinues the Panthere Watch Collection
Cartier discontinued the entire Panthere watch collection in 2004, which left quite a gap in the Cartier jewelry watch offering.
The Cartier Santos Demoiselle was initially thought to be a fitting substitute for the Cartier Panthere watch, and it even featured a Panthere-style bracelet. However, the Santos Demoiselle was an overall sportier watch and somehow it lacked the refinement and glamour of the original Panthere watch.
Thankfully, just over a dozen years after discontinuing the Panthere collection, Cartier revived the Panthere watch for a whole new generation to enjoy. The new Cartier Panthere line is continuously expanding with new sizes, materials, and dial executions added to the core collection.
Cartier Santos Demoiselle
Current Generation Cartier Panthere Watch Collection
In 2017, Cartier made headlines at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) by announcing the return of the ultra-popular Cartier Panthere collection. To kick off the collection, Cartier offered the modern Panthere in various metals across two sizes: small and medium. The current production Panthère de Cartier lineup has since expanded to include mini models.
• Current Cartier Panthere Mini watch size: 21mm x 25mm
• Current Cartier Panthere Small watch size: 22mm x 30mm
• Current Cartier Panthere Medium watch size: 27mm x 37mm
Similar to the older series, the new Cartier Panthere watches come in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel/yellow gold, and white gold. However, new to the current Cartier Panthere lineup are rose gold (aka pink gold) and two-tone steel and rose gold models.
Popular Current Cartier Panthere Watch References:
There are currently about 40 models in the new Panthere watch collection, varying in sizes, materials, and styles. However, these are some of the most popular Cartier Panthere watches right now:
• Steel Cartier Panthere Mini watch ref. WSPN0019
• Steel Cartier Panthere Small watch ref. WSPN0006
• Steel Cartier Panthere Medium watch ref. WSPN0007
• Steel/Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Small watch ref. W2PN0006
• Steel/Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Medium watch ref. W2PN0007
• Steel/Rose Gold/Diamonds Cartier Panthere Small watch ref. W3PN0006
• Steel/Rose Gold/Diamonds Cartier Panthere Medium watch ref. W3PN0007
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Mini watch ref. WGPN0016
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Small watch ref. WGPN0008
• Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Medium watch ref. WGPN0009
• Rose Gold Cartier Panthere Small watch ref. WGPN0006
• Rose Gold Cartier Panthere Medium watch ref. WGPN0007
Cartier continues to depend on quartz movements to power the current Panthere watch collection. The steel and two-tone variants include synthetic blue spinel stones in the crown while the gold models include a sapphire set into the crown. The gold and diamond Panthere watches have a diamond set into the crown. The latest Panthere watches are water resistant to 30 meters.
Panthère de Cartier Watch Variations
There are also some notable variants in the current Panthere range that deviate from the classic silhouette. These include double and triple loop Panthere watches, as well as cuff Panthere watches — all of which are exclusively available in either 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold.
The double and triple loop Panthere watches feature extra long link bracelets that wrap around the wrist either twice or three times, which mimics a perfectly crafted wrist stack. On the other hand, the cuff Panthere watch features 13 link rows and the case is placed off-center for an exceedingly chic look.
Older Panthere vs. Newer Panthere Watches
At first glance, the old Panthere watches and the new Panthere watches look identical. They both feature square cases, bezels, and dials, along with that famous brick-lay link bracelet. Yet, there are a few differences between both generations to consider.
First of all, while the previous series of Panthere watches offered time-only and time and date models (as well as some moon phase and chronograph variants we outlined above), the current collection only houses time-only models. Furthermore, Cartier updated the Panthere watch bracelets whereby the newer versions are not only suppler but they also feature heftier links and an improved clasp.
The other major differences between the older discontinued Panthere collection and the new one are the material and size choices. The previous collection did not offer rose gold models while the new one does. On the other hand, the largest size within the new collection is the 27mm medium Panthere watch while the largest size in the older collection is the 29mm large (or Jumbo) Panthere watch.
If you compare a vintage Panthere mini with a modern Panthere mini, one of the first things you’ll notice is that the former does not have a traditional winding crown. Instead, the older versions of the Cartier Panthere mini model include a push-piece on the caseback that serves to set the time on the watch. New Cartier Panthere mini watches do have the traditional winding crown on the right-hand side of the case.
Celebrities Love the Cartier Panthere Watch
If you read about the Cartier Panthere, you’ll likely notice that the timepiece is often referred to as the It watch. This is because the Cartier Panthere watch has been a favorite among celebrities and tastemakers for decades.
When it was first released, celebrities such as Pierce Brosnan, Keith Richards, Charlie Sheen, Jane Fonda, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Madonna were often seen wearing Cartier Panthere watches. It’s been reported that Madonna gave Alanis Morissette a Panthere watch during the height of the Jagged Little Pill album.
The Panthere’s revival has attracted a new crop of celebrity fans including Dua Lipa, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, Bella Hadid, Sienna Miller, Jennifer Lopez, Sofia Vergara, Rihanna, and so many others.
Dua Lupa pairs her Panthère with lots of gold jewelry
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Anne Hathaway is another Hollywood star who has the Panthère de Cartier
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Sienna Miller is a fan of Cartier, and here wore it a Panthère party
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Jane Fonda in 1987 wearing the watch which many regard as an emblem of the 80s
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Gwyneth Paltrow wore this throughout the 90s, often paired with her simple monochrome outfits
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Madonna wore the Panthère throughout the 80s
(Photo: uk.style.yahoo.com/look-closely-youll-spot-one-150)
Cartier Panthere Watch Prices
So how much can you expect to pay for a Cartier Panthere watch? Naturally, it depends on if you opt for an older model or newer reference, whether you buy a new or pre-owned Cartier Panthere, and what size and material you decide on.
Given how iconic the watch is, prices for used Cartier Panthere watches are relatively affordable.
Prices for Pre-Owned Vintage Panthere de Cartier Watches
• Pre-owned steel Cartier Panthere watch prices start at $2,999
• Pre-owned two-tone Cartier Panthere watch prices start at $3,499
• Pre-owned gold Cartier Panthere watch prices start at $9,299
• Pre-owned diamond Cartier Panthere watch prices start at $9,999
Of course, buying new Cartier Panthere watches at retail will be more expensive. Below is a sample of current Panthere Manufacture’s Suggested Retail Prices (MSRP):
Retail prices for Panthere de Cartier Watches:
•Steel Cartier Panthere Medium: $5,000
•Two-Tone Cartier Panthere Medium: $8,750
•Yellow Gold Cartier Panthere Medium $28,800
•Rose Gold Cartier Panthere Medium: $24,800
The most expensive Cartier Panthere watch in the brand’s current catalog is a spectacular 18k white gold variant entirely set in diamonds and peppered with a black enamel leopard print pattern. This beauty is priced at $150,000!
Opting for pre-owned Panthere watches from the new collection can also snag you some savings — in some cases up to $10,000 less than retail. Below is a sample of pre-owned Panthere prices compared to MSRP:
Prices for Pre-Owned Panthere Watches from the New Collection
• Pre-owned rose gold diamond Cartier Panthere Medium (WJPN009) watch price: Starting at $19,999 (Compare to $29,000 MSRP)
• Pre-owned rose gold diamond Cartier Panthere Small (WJPN0008) watch price: Starting at $18,999 (Compare to $25,800 MSRP)
• Pre-owned rose gold Cartier Panthere Medium (WGPN0007) watch price: Starting at $15,999 (Compare to $24,800 MSRP)
2022 Cartier Panthere Watches
At Watches and Wonders 2022, Cartier announced a new batch of Panthere watches. There are four new versions in rose gold, yellow gold, and steel, with sunray dials in shades of golden plum, midnight blue, and black.
• Cartier Panthere ref. WSPN0010: Steel, black/gray diagonal gradient dial
• Cartier Panthere ref. W4PN0013: Steel, diamond bezel, blue/navy diagonal gradient dial
• Cartier Panthere ref. WGPN0031: Yellow gold, gold/golden brown diagonal gradient dial
• Cartier Panthere ref. WJPN0035: Rose gold, diamond bezel, plum/golden brown diagonal gradient dial
The dials of the brand new 2022 Panthere watches, which are a departure from classic Cartier Roman numeral dials, are diagonally crossed to give off a subtle gradations effect.
The Enduring Appeal of the Cartier Panthere Watch
Whether from the older 80s and 90s series or the new post-2017 series, a Cartier Panthere watch is an absolute classic in luxury watches. Effortlessly chic in design, easy to wear, and instantly recognizable, the versatile Panthere watch is one that can be worn all the time and for just about any occasion.
It’s dressy without being fussy, and because it runs on a quartz movement, it’s also low maintenance.
So, if you’re looking for a fine ladies’ watch that has enduring appeal, the Cartier Panthere watch collection is one worth delving into. Phigora is proud to offer a wide selection of pre-owned Cartier Panthere watches for sale online, including vintage, retro, and new-generation Panthère de Cartier watches.
